London Bites

London is fun even when it's 55 degrees . . . and raining. In May.

I know this because DH and I just got back from a visit. First trip there in 10 years. My, it's changed a bit. And not just because of the Starbucks on every other corner. (Not to mention the Costa Coffee shops, the Caffes Nero, the Coffee Republics . . .)

Do you know when the first coffee shop was established in London? (Hint: it wasn't in the 1980s, nor did it have anything to do with a character from Moby Dick.)

Today, this fine establishment is the Jamaica Wine House. Well, OK, it still involves liquid refreshment.

At right is a more typical shot. (Mind you, as a Starbucks shareholder, I can't really complain . . . ) This was taken from an alley in Hampstead, a close-in London suburb.

Hampstead is famous for Hampstead Heath, a lovely preserve of land with London skyline views. Observe:

Waaay in the distance . . . there's a glimpse of London.

Here's a better shot:

Not a bad neighbourhood (as the Brits would term it).

This shot was taken on a non-rainy day. Or, mostly so. I believe there was one day out of 7 where we didn't actually have to employ our umbrellas. London really is the place where if you don't like the weather, wait a minute.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, Hamstead Heath is known for kite flying.

Ah, but what of the town? Well, it's pretty charming, too:

Yep, that wooden chick was attached to a neighborhood house. (Does anyone know the words to the Eton boating song??)

Finally, before we leave Hampstead: the lovely shop where we had tea and some delightful pastries:

Can't say as how I've ever before been to a Hungarian confectionery. Yummy.

Y'know what fascinates me, in London or any other city with a subway? Underground art. NYC has gorgeous ceramic tile walls and signage; Montreal has (if I recall right) murals and glass art. London? It has a bit of everything.

Some passageways are lined with tile in a most artful way. This is one of the Central Line passageways.

The Bank Street station has bas-relief style:

Jazzy saxophone tile mosaic:

London is an old city; a lot has taken place in its streets and houses over the centuries. As it happens, the Brits like to put up plaques about it. We chanced to walk past, for example, the house where T.S. Elliot lived and died. Here's one of George Orwell's haunts:

But other, lesser-known luminaries also have their memorials (such as the composer of the Eton Boating song).

When you go to London, you expect to see old buildings. Yes, there are plenty of those:

But there is also the unexpected (London has very much embraced modernism):

This sci-fi structure, headquarters of Swiss RE, is affectionately (or not) known as "the Gherkin." (Click the link for far, far better shots, taken in better weather.)

The V&A museum, one of my favorites in all the world (not just in London) had an exhibit on Modernism. We took about 2 hours to go through it, and also through a smaller exhibit at the Design Museum. One thing I learned: Brits were subject to far greater rationing during WWII than we Americans, partly because of destruction caused by the Blitz. Citizens were expected to "make do or mend." In 1941 the government set up the Utility Scheme, whereby clothing, furniture, and similar items were made available to those in need. These items were designed plainly and simply . . . and in fact were, IMO, quite austere and downright ugly, especially the furniture (some pieces of which were on view). According to the Design Museum exhibit, these items were so hated, that most folks preferred buying second-hand (but to their mind, more stylish) items, when they became available. Nevertheless, the Utility period apparently did have a somewhat modernizing effect on British tastes, in the long run.

Another thing I observed: romance novels set in WWII London, featuring soldiers marching off to war, apparently are still very popular in the U.K.

What would a trip to London be, without food? The U.K.'s reputation for bad British cooking is quite undeserved. London may well be the pre-eminent world city, in terms of cuisine (or at least it's giving NYC a run for its money). Anything you want -- it's there. We had: Moroccan, Lebanese, Asian, Turkish . . . not to mention Modern British (similar to New American), some good ol' fish 'n chips . . . it was heavenly.

Yes, I've cut back a bit this week. It was so worth it, though. Notable: the S&M Cafe (get your mind out of the gutter ... that stands for Sausage 'n Mash); the Original Tagines restaurant; and, of course, the venerable Wagamama, where we first ate way back in 1990.

I also got my fill of Cadbury chocolate. Oh, the varieties they have there . . . Yes, I brought back a couple of bars.

Yummmmm.

Finally: a couple of good pubs, foodwise: The Cambridge Union, in Cambridge, and the Wells, in Hampstead. Wells once had a rather saucy rep; I'll leave you with its story: